Trip to La Goutte d’Or/Barbès

Trip to La Goutte d’Or/Barbès

A building in La Goutte d’Or
(this photo and the photos in the slideshow below were taken by me)

On our fifth day in Paris, we had the pleasure of getting to explore the Barbès neighborhood, located in the 18th arrondissement. This neighborhood is rife with diversity, mostly housing immigrants of African and Arab descent, and we ventured to the area known as “Little Africa” or “La Goutte d’Or.” Our visit was guided by Jaqueline Ngo Mpii, an author who’s extremely passionate about getting tourists and the broader Parisian public to recognize the beauty of the neighborhood and all it has to offer. Before we were led into clothing and fabric stores, we were given a somewhat brief but informative history of the neighborhood.

A storefront in La Goutte d’Or
(photo taken by me)

Unfortunately, Barbès has been the subject of much discrimination from the Parisian public, its been painted as crime ridden and run down, so many are advised to stay away. In fact, our other tour guide (who wasn’t born and raised in Paris) showcased this by advising everyone to hold on tight to their bags when we arrived in the district, allowing me to see first-hand how that deep that association runs. However, this association didn’t hold any weight as what I saw that day was nothing resembling an area worth avoiding.

After Jaqueline informed us of the neighborhood’s history, we were able to go into a variety of shops. One of the shops we visited was Maison Château Rouge which is a French clothing and lifestyle brand that uses wax fabric and African inspired prints within their designs. It was started by Youssouf and Mamadou Fofafana, two brothers of Senegalese descent who grew up in the suburbs of Paris, who wanted to showcase their heritage in a way that was accessible, socially responsible, and contemporary. They collaborate with many local merchants in the neighborhood and even though they weren’t raised there, they felt strongly about locating the shop within the African center of Paris. Although it may deter some from shopping in-store, they’ve made substantial moves within the French design world, notably partnering with one of France’s biggest chain stores, Monoprix, for a collection and it was evident upon entering the store that their commitment will only bring about more opportunities.

Maison Château Rouge
(credits: Maison Château Rouge)

Another store we visited was Peulh Vagabond which is a French clothing and jewelry brand started by a Senegalese woman Dyenaa Diaw, who was born and raised in the 18th arrondissement. Unlike Maison Château Rouge, this brand incorporates fabrics that use weaving techniques which are much more traditional and unique to Africa than wax fabrics. What both brands do however is buy their fabrics directly from and employ the talents of African artisans, effectively eliminating corruption along their supply chain.

I think both of these brands are interesting because they while they seek to incorporate elements of both African and European cultures, it’s still vividly and proudly African throughout. Fashion is being used as a channel for identity exploration in such innovative ways and it’s being used as a way to bring attention to and reclaim neighborhoods that have been unfairly labelled. It’s a perfect exemplification of our topics because though they are participating in a free market/capitalist system while within an industry notable for its unethical practices, they’re doing so in a way that’s actually helping and empowering people.

Sources: (used for background info on district and owners of shops)

Balvay, Caroline. “Maison Château Rouge, the World of Youssouf Fofana.” The Socialite Family, https://www.thesocialitefamily.com/en/blog/meet-with- youssouf-fofana-monoprix-x-maison-chateau-rouge-collaboration/. Accessed 7 May 2019.

Bocoum, Fatima. “Peulh Vagabond: The Discovery of One Another. An Interview with Dyenaa Diaw.” OPENLETR, https://www.openletr.co/find-your-truth/peulh-vagabond-the-discovery-of-one-another-an-interview-with-dyenaa-diaw6232018. Accessed 7 May 2019.

Chase, Anthony. “Another Paris.” Another Paris: Imagining Barbès, http://www.shatterthelookingglass.com/another-paris-imagining-barbes/. Accessed 7 May 2019.

“La Marque et Sa Créatrice – A Propos.” Peulh Vagabond, https://www.peulhvagabond.com/index.php/a-propos/la-marque-creatrice.html. Accessed 7 May 2019.

“Peulh Vagabond.” Antou Studio, https://antoustudio.com/pages/peulh-vagabond. Accessed 7 May 2019.

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